Epicurean Group’s food truck is a familiar sight throughout the metro area.
More often than not, it’ll be parked outside the venue where a fundraising gala has been held, with staff dispensing hot chocolate and fresh-from-the-fryer Sicilian doughnuts to guests waiting for the parking valets to fetch their cars. But you can also find it at birthday parties, sporting events, company picnics and neighborhood block parties, just to name a few.
And at least once a month, it pulls into the parking lot at the Volunteers of America mission at 2877 Lawrence St., where as many as 500 people line up to enjoy a free meal prepared by Epicurean chefs Bob Gitre and Keith Whitmyre and served with a smile by owner Larry DiPasquale himself.
The menu varies, but always includes a hearty main dish, bread and dessert. The day we were there, volunteer David Alexander helped DiPasquale and Gitre serve chicken paella, corn muffins and sopaipillas.
It’s OK to come back for seconds, or to ask for the food to go. DiPasquale also provides lids for the food containers, paper napkins and plastic utensils.
The point is to help feed the hungry in a dignified manner.
“Larry and his crew interact very well with our clients and treat everyone with respect,” says Jana Baker, the mission’s volunteer specialist. “Something like this helps get them out of the daily monotony of life on the streets.”
At first, she adds, “Our clients didn’t understand that the food was free. They hesitated to come up to the truck because they figured they’d have to pay, and they didn’t have money.”
It didn’t take long for them to catch on and now, Baker says, folks start lining up at 10 a.m. on the days the food truck is there.
“We serve food at the mission, but our resources are often stretched thin. What Larry gives out is chock full of meat and vegetables; we hear clients saying all the time that they’ve never seen so much meat in one dish.”
Inspired by the boundless philanthropy of his good friend, the late Noel Cunningham, who owned Strings restaurant and was known worldwide for his efforts to eradicate hunger, DiPasquale began doing this in January.
“I told VOA I would do it for a year, but the experience has been so rewarding that I plan to continue way beyond that.”
The meals he offers aren’t warmed-up leftovers or dishes made with inexpensive ingredients and served in skimpy portions. It takes eight hours to plan the menu and prepare the food for each visit to the mission.
“We offer the same high quality as we would for a gala or a wedding,” DiPasquale says. “It’s our way of showing respect for those in need.”
Gitre says he welcomes requests from the mission’s clients, and two of the most frequent are for turkey chili and beef-barley soup.
“Chili is our most popular dish,” Gitre says. “It’s something everyone recognizes, and when it’s cold outside you can’t go wrong with a hot bowl of chili.”
One client who was experiencing Epicurean food truck hospitality for the first time was moved to tears by the gesture. He said he usually eats food gleaned from Dumpsters and that the chicken paella was the first hot meal he’d had in quite some time.
“This is delicious,” he said. “I’ve seen food trucks, but I never thought I’d be eating at one.”
In the months to come, DiPasquale hopes to expand the effort by partnering with other catering companies, restaurateurs and purveyors. “It’s giving back that makes you what you are,” he says. “We get way more out of this than we give.”
The bottom line, Baker says, is “they don’t have to be here, but they are. And that says a lot.”
Joanne Davidson: 303-809-1314, jdavidson@ denverpost.com or twitter.com/joannedavidson
New approach for bridge project gala
Instead of a formal, sit-down dinner in a hotel ballroom, the Bridge Project tried something new for its annual fundraiser. Wine, Stein & Dine was held in a tent on the University of Denver campus and was a huge success. Joanne Davidson has details blogs.denverpost. com/style
