CRESTED BUTTE — Never before have I been so cognizant of where 11 and one sit on the imaginary clock that’s apparently followed me here from the Front Range to the Taylor River Canyon, some 15 miles southeast of Crested Butte.
I’m standing at the bank of a well-stocked trout pond built with newbies like me in mind. In my hand is a rod with reel and line. This gear is unknown to my middle-aged hands; until now, I considered fly-fishing a pursuit better left to the more poetic and patient of my mountain ilk. But Ian, my guide at the Taylor River Lodge and a consummate angler, has demystified the sport so effortlessly that I’m swinging the rod back and forth without tangling the line and eyeing the spot on the water where I want my fly to land.
I should probably know what kind of fly Ian tied onto the tip of the line, but in my mind, that’s one step up from rank beginner, a title I’m claiming, so I don’t worry about my lack of due diligence. The motion is relaxing and the cast is effortless (again—the bliss of the novice who’s unaware of all the mistakes she’s making).
This time, it lands me a fish. The rod bends against the writhing weight. I dig in my heels and let the trout flail around under water before reeling him in to Ian’s waiting net. Swiftly, my guide removes the barbed fly and shows me how to wet my hands before holding the fish, whose only agenda is to leap from my grasp and splash me on his way back into the deep drink.
It’s thrilling enough that another hour passes before I hand over my equipment and head to the hot tub, a salt-water oasis abutting an elegant lap pool that sits in what has to be the most elegant pool house in cowboy country. I’ll soak for a bit before rinsing off in the steam shower in my cabin (perched, naturally, near the Taylor River, home to one of Colorado’s prize trout fisheries), and then mosey into the “dining hall” where dinner is likely to be carrot ginger soup followed by quinoa and salmon and then homemade bread pudding, and where the meal will be paired with wine.
Welcome to the Taylor River Lodge, the newest and undoubtedly most exclusive property within vicinity of Crested Butte. Originally the Whitewater Resort, the intimate lodge on the west side of Cottonwood Pass, near the town of Almont, was purchased by Eleven Experience, a high-end travel company with elegant properties around the world, and then underwent a three-year renovation.
In another life, it was a campy river lodge, more dude ranch than not (minus the cowboys) with bare bones log cabins and a campground in the center of the property. Today that campground is the site of farm-to-table outdoor dinners, and the original cabins still evoke western ruggedness. None have televisions; cell phones don’t work here (but the Internet works—most of the time).
In other words, the lodge is luxurious but not fancy. There are Yeti coolers and mini-fridges stocked with coconut water, sparkling water, beer, wine, and more throughout the property, and snacks abound. Coffee and tea are always available in the main lodge, and the attentive staff is exceedingly friendly. For instance, as I wrestled the slimy fish in my hands, a lodge staffer passing by paused, snapped a picture with his cell phone and then texted it to me.
Between the guides, the facility, the natural beauty, and the calming sound of the nearby river, it’s easy to appreciate Eleven’s original vision: create a summer camp for adults and their entourage, be it a trip with immediate or extended family, reunions with friends or more adventure-minded pursuits.
But doesn’t matter if you’re a newbie angler or a seasoned one, or if you don’t even fish. With all of Crested Butte’s outdoor recreation nearby, and a suite of skilled and eager guides, guests have access to world-class hiking, biking, running, rafting, kids adventures, horseback riding and more — followed by a deep-tissue massage, a private yoga class or a slacklining session. Those looking for something rowdier can bust out the archery sets, BB guns or try axe throwing.
These are all things I will consider when I’m back home in Boulder juggling school drop off with soccer practice and dinnertime. But for now, as Ian and I fine-tune my cast, I’ve pretty much forgotten about anything other than trout and my effort to snag one.
And that is what makes this extravagant experience worth the splurge.
If you go
With a lodging capacity of 32 and seven cabins plus one single-family home, the lodge can be rented out in its entirety or by booking individual cabins. Cabin prices range (per night, based on double occupancy) range from $1,720 to $2,200. Reservations: reservations@elevenexperience.com; 970-349-7761. http://elevenexperience.com/destinations/taylor-river-lodge
Updated Sept. 25, 2016, at 11:29 a.m. Because of a reporting error, the location of Taylor River Lodge was originally misstated. It is in Almont.
