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“Mesa Verde” and “smoking lounge” make an odd juxtaposition, even in an airport full of contrasts. While the ancients might not recognize fry bread french toast, the menu at this DIA restaurant emphasizes contemporary Colorado ingredients and dishes.

And smoking.

Because it’s on the international Concourse A, the restaurant/bar has been designated as a smoking area. As the hostess repeated at least five times to different customers during a recent meal there, nonsmokers can sit outside while others get their nicotine fix inside at the bar and dining room.

You have to walk through the haze to get to the smoke-free tables, but once seated, the smoke is barely noticeable.

Low expectations and travel fatigue usually combine for a get-it-over airport eating experience, but Mesa Verde delivered on its promise of “fresh, wholesome tastes.”

The grilled Caesar salad managed to hit a smoky note (no pun intended) but was still fresh and not overdressed. The portobello mushrooms, red peppers and green chiles on the open-face roasted vegetable platter might not have required so much melted cheese, but their marinated flavor came through anyway.

The service was cheerful, and it was entertaining to sit on the fake-adobe patio and eavesdrop on the desperate smokers grateful for a place to inhale before their flights.