We could argue for a long time about what meal sits at the heart of the American experience.
Let’s not argue. Go with a burger and fries.
Like you, I have inhaled many more burgers than I can count. Burgers as thin as cork coasters. Burgers dressed in green chile and cheese, burgers hidden in monstrous buns, and fat, misshapen things fresh from a charcoal grill, dripping juice, dispatched before even reaching the container packed with Aunt Alice’s famous deviled eggs.
Like you, I have eaten fries as if they were some tactile consituent part of the element known as oxygen. I have breathed fries. Cardboard fries, soggy fries, burnt fries and blessed perfect fries.
I have a new burger-and-fries joint: Larkburger.
Here, the burgers have the right consistency — neither pounded into something like particle board, nor held together with little more than a prayer — and the proper size. They are not panes of ground beef. They are not softballs. The all-important buns are soft and compact and possibly the best I have tasted in years.
Here, the fries are the circumference of birthday-cake candles and crisp, as they should be.
If you’re looking for something different, go with the tuna burger. It’s a slab of tuna — not a processed puck of marine life — and it rocks. Also on the menu: turkey and vegetarian (portobello mushroom) burgers.
Douglas Brown: 303-954-1395 or djbrown@denverpost.com
LARKBURGER
Burgers.
Boulder: 2525 Arapahoe Ave. Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. 303-444-1487
Edwards: 105 Edwards Village Blvd. Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. 970-926-9336
larkburger.com
