The morning is frigid, but fear not: You are digging into a hot, crispy biscuit smothered with homemade sausage gravy while jump blues wafts from the speakers — all under the watchful eye of a bison head mounted on the worn brick wall.
Breakfast doesn’t get more all-American than this.
The Denver Biscuit Co. opened in early December, sharing space in the Atomic Cowboy on East Colfax Avenue, just west of the Bluebird Theater.
With a menu that’s short but sweet, the restaurant recently expanded its breakfast and lunch service from weekends to a daily concern.
“The crowds had gotten pretty crazy, and we thought the timing was right,” says proprietor Drew Shader, who also operates Fat Sullys pizzeria inside the Atomic.
The biscuits are flaky and filling, available plain or tricked out as sandwiches. Popular choices include the Ellsworth ($6), perfect buttermilk-fried chicken with stone-ground mustard on a biscuit, and the Eudora ($7.50) an Angus steak-burger on a biscuit.
You can nosh on a traditional egg-and-cheddar biscuit for $4.
Platters include biscuits and gravy (zippy Southern-style pork sausage or vegetarian for $6), a chicken pot-pie biscuit for $7.50, or a biscuit smothered in strawberries and whipped cream for $5. Yum.
The usual go-withs that biscuit aficionados expect, such as honey and seasonal jams, are available. Ditto for eggs, bacon and grits. Everything, including the sausage and pickles, is made in-house.
William Porter: 303-954-1877 or wporter@denverpost.com
Denver Biscuit Co.
Biscuits. 3237 E. Colfax Ave. 303-377-7900. Hours: Monday-Friday 7 a.m.-2 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday 8 a.m.-2 p.m., denbisco.com