People who go out to eat (that means you) can be divided into two camps: Those who like surprises and those who don’t.
Houston’s, the new Denver outpost of the popular nationwide chain, is for the second category of people, those who don’t like surprises. It is a tightly managed, carefully conceived restaurant focused on executing a well-practiced menu for a nicely primed market.
A surprise would muddy the point of Houston’s. The chain has a lot to live up to, including a first-place rank in a recent Consumer Reports survey on national chain restaurants, which means that rocking the boat is at the bottom of their to-do list. Houston’s didn’t open up in Cherry Creek North to surprise anyone; they’re here to bring their sharply hewn concept to a neighborhood full of the kind of free- spending customers that will appreciate it.
Houston’s (along with Cherry Creek Grill, just a few blocks away) is wrapped up in the corporate embrace of Hillstone Restaurant Group (also home to Bandera) — which means you’ll find on the menu your favorite French dip sandwich and “Bandera-style” roasted chicken (called “Famous” roast chicken here and, if it’s any different, you can’t tell on the plate).
Both are predictably tasty. (No surprise there.) Also good: the carefully- created burgers (albeit no bargain at $13), the well-prepared steaks, and the “Thai” steak and noodle salad, a busy toss of noodles, veggies and marinated filet.
One lovely thing: the bar, which ferrets out beautifully made, and not ridiculously intricate, cocktails, including a martini that rates with the neighborhood’s best. If only the bar were a dozen seats bigger.
One more lovely thing: Fish of the day. Choose the simple grilled fish, whatever the day’s fish happens to be, sparely presented with vegetables. Lucky you if you come on trout night to enjoy the buttery, savory, meaty-moist flesh prepared with little more than lemon and salt.
Bargains are scarce. One especially egregious item: the $31 crab cake. Lackluster and underseasoned, it was a meager dish, unimpressive in stature and way overpriced. (Guessing here: Most Houston’s customers probably don’t care.)
One recurring service snafu: pacing. On three out of four visits I have had to move my appetizer plate out of the way to make room for entree, and I’m not the slowest eater in the neighborhood. I’m suspecting that this quirk will eventually be worked out (although three months should be long enough), but management should know: no matter how cheerful the server, being rushed is equally as annoying as being made to wait.
One traffic problem you’ll encounter as soon as you arrive — no matter which door you use: There is no apparent receiving area, and you just don’t know where to go. Unless you are greeted right away, finding a host or hostess will befuddle you, and befuddlement is no way to start an evening. An obvious marker would help.
Perhaps Houston’s most significant asset is its gregarious crowd. The restaurant is lively and busy most every night of the week with Creek denizens angling to see and be seen. Don’t choose Houston’s for quiet conversation or a steal-away romantic supper; the room is too noisy for that. Come to Houston’s to sip cocktails, show off your new double-process hair color, and/or avoid deep conversation.
No surprise here: Houston’s is a hit. The formula is tight, the market a no-brainer (even in this economy), and the show well-rehearsed. Judging by the crowds, and also by the return customers, expect this one to stick around a while.
Agree? Disagree? Hit denverpost.com/ restaurants and tell us what you think.
HOUSTON’S
American. 303 Josephine St., 303-333-4688, hillstone.com
* 1/2 (Good/Very Good)
Atmosphere: Flashy dining room that’s always crowded, busy bar area, and wide-open kitchen. Flattering lighting.
Service: Legions of servers are friendly and fast—sometimes too fast.
Wine: Decent list, no surprises, a few deals, good cocktails.
Plates: Burgers and sandwiches $13-$17; entrees $18-$31.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
Details: Reservations suggested, and you’ll be glad for them. Parking lot. Wheelchair accessible.
Four visits.
Our star system: : **** Exceptional : *** Great : ** Very Good : * Good
