In general, I am not disposed to believe a restaurant review that says anything akin to “the next best thing to really being in Paris” or “one bite and you’re instantly transported to Phuket.”
And so I will not say that walking through the doors of Cracovia, a charming neighborhood restaurant in Westminster, feels like stepping off the plane in Poland. (For one thing, I’ve never been to Poland, so how would I know?)
Instead, I will say that walking through the doors of Cracovia feels like walking through the doors of a charming neighborhood Polish restaurant in Westminster, which is to say it is a delightful feeling.
Cracovia is the kind of restaurant that I wish we could see more of in Denver. It is independent and family-run by a dedicated group of cooks and waiters whose commitment to hospitality is evident throughout the restaurant, from the smile on the hostess’ face to the tang in the pickle soup.
Pickle soup?
Yes. Sopa ogorkowa is one of the many dishes I’d never tried, or even heard of, before my first visit to Cracovia. It is rather more like a potato soup that’s studded with little bits of pickled cucumber, which act more as an enhanced garnish, a tongue-nicking accent flavor, than as the main ingredient.
Another dish I’d never tried: kizka, a rich, backcountry pork sausage made with barley. It shared plate space with boiled potatoes and sauerkraut, making for a robust rib-sticker of a lunch.
Cracovia is adept at these rib- stickers, chief among them bigos, a traditional hunter’s stew that is a kitchen-sink bowlful of pork, mushrooms, cabbage and kielbasa. Served with bread and beer, it may leave you feeling more ready for a nap than a hunt, but a happy nap it’ll be.
Cracovia makes its kielbasa in-house, and they are roundly flavored with pork and a pleasant balance of herby spices — a far cry from the often overly smoky or salty store-bought links. Try, also, the unsmoked white sausage, delicate and light but substantial enough to stand up to the perky homemade mustard.
There are a few lighter dishes for smaller appetites, such as the chicken paillar, Cracovia’s nod to the French paillard, a breast of chicken pounded thin and sauteed and served with salad. It is a fair example of the ubiquitous chicken-breast supper, but if you order it, you’ll likely stare at your companion’s plate of Golabki (cabbage stuffed with beautifully seasoned ground pork and rice and served with a creamy mushroom sauce) or at that plate of cheese- or meat- or mushroom-stuffed pierogi across the room, and you’ll wish you’d waited to start your diet tomorrow.
I’m not sure how traditional the breaded tilapia fillet is, but it is awful in any event. If you’re looking for fish, look at the trout, which the kitchen seems much more comfortable cooking, anyway.
A visit to Cracovia will likely be shared with families from the neighborhood who’ve taken a welcome break from the chains, perhaps a group of Polish-Americans gathered for a big dinner and bopping to the Polish pop songs played as background music, maybe even a few old-timers looking for a bowl of Gulasz or a little small talk in Polish. There may be barflies seated for drinks, young couples making plans over paczki (Polish doughnuts), old couples finishing up an early-bird supper. On weekends, they might be in for the dancing — polka night brings musicians, singers, and spirited revelers together.
A night in the old country? No. No restaurant ever delivers on that particular promise. But Cracovia is a lovely neighborhood Polish restaurant, one of Westminster’s many hidden jewels. Put it on your short list, and visit soon.
What do you think of Cracovia? Visit denverpost.com/restaurants and tell us.
CRACOVIA
Polish. 8121 W. 94th Ave., Westminster, 303-484-9388, cracoviarestaurant.com
** (Very Good)
Atmosphere: Friendly, low-lit, comfortable room in a nondescript strip mall. Space for large parties.
Service: Knowledgeable about the Polish menu
Wine: Small list, plus beers and more
Plates: Most entrees around $13-$15, nothing over $20
Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9:00 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Details: Parking. Wheelchair accessible. No reservations needed. Live music and dancing on weekends.
Three visits.
Our star system: ****: Exceptional. ***: Great. **: Very Good. *: Good.
