It’s been some time since the restaurant space at 12 E. 11th Ave. (between Broadway and Lincoln Street) has housed a tenant that feels like it belongs there. It was Fidel’s for a spell, and it was Metro Kitchen for a spell, and it’s been a few other things along the way, but nothing’s really found enough of a groove to stick.
Until, it appears, now.
Zocalo is the kind of no-brainer Mexican restaurant that caters equally well to early-supping families and late-night partiers. It won’t win any culinary awards any time soon, but it’s an affable operation that’s easy to like, and sometimes that’s good enough.
Zocalo (which according to the menu is a Mexican colloquialism for “town square”) practices a very specific style of restauranting. Rather than trying to have the “best” of anything (chile, margaritas, salsa) or gunning to be the city’s hottest hot spot, Zocalo’s goal appears to be to tap into the neighborhood, cook simple food, and make an honest business of feeding hungry locals ample plates of simple food for a (relatively) modest price. (Relative because this is, after all, central Denver. Not much in this neighborhood qualifies as dirt-cheap.)
Usual suspects populate the menu: smothered burritos, eggs scrambled with chorizo, carnitas, combo plates, margaritas. Measured against the pantheon of Mexican restaurant menus around town, Zocalo’s list is relatively modest (no four-page roster of “specials” here) and straightforward. It’s a WYSIWYG menu, with few surprises, so your best move is to go for a dish you already know.
For example, fish tacos, a rewarding version of a ubiquitous dish. About 10 bucks scores you three tacos — fresh, warm tortillas folded over nicely spiced, soft chunks of whitefish (tilapia on a recent visit), with a full plate of fixin’s.
Or, snag the griddled carnitas tacos dish, wherein tortillas are stuffed with porky, mildly spicy carnitas, then griddled until faintly crispy.
Service at Zocalo is particularly friendly; the folks managing this 2-month-old venture are doing so with vigor and attention. Food arrives quickly and hot, mistakes are corrected without hesitation, and the basket of warm chips (and attendant saucer of smoky salsa) stays full throughout your meal.
Here’s a nice perk: Zocalo has a frequent-diner card. Buy 10 meals, get one free. Not an earth-shattering deal, or an original concept, but nice nonetheless.
Here’s another nice perk: the patio out front, especially at lunchtime. Sure, 11th Avenue isn’t the greatest view in town, but Mexican lunches are best eaten outdoos, and Zocalo has plenty of room.
Third perk: It’s open late. As in, at least until midnight, seven nights a week.
Zocalo’s calendar is full of specials — taco nights, happy hours, event- based deals (the recent World Cup was especially well-merchandised here). Visit Zocalo’s robust Facebook page to stay abreast.
Amazing culinary experience? Not really. Tasty food? Sure. Pleasant atmosphere? Yup. Margaritas? Not bad. Beer? Cold. Nice people running the place? Check. Good value? Yes.
Zocalo doesn’t overreach, and by doing so, has a good grasp on what it is doing — serving decent versions of recognizable pan-Mexican favorites to hungry, unpicky crowds. It is the right restaurant for this space, a nice addition to the neighborhood. By not aiming too high, they are hitting their mark, solidly. And Capitol Hill residents suffering from Benny’s-ennui now have another choice.
Got thoughts on Zocalo? Share them at denverpost.com/restaurants.
Zocalo Restaurant & Bar
Mexican
12 E. 11th Ave., 720-382-1940
* 1/2 |(Good/Very Good)
Atmosphere: Simple, energetic urban Mexican bar/restaurant, full bar with plenty of televisions, spacious patio
Service: Attentive and speedy
Prices: Most entrees around $10
Hours: Sunday-Wednesday 11 a.m.-midnight; Thursday-Saturday 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m.
Details: Good for large groups, but call ahead. Many specials; check Facebook. Wheelchair-accessible. Kid-friendly.
Three visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
