He couldn’t have been more than 19, thin as a rail. He sat there, dazed, alone at a two-top, about 10 percent of the way into the gargantuan 7-pound burrito on the oversized plate in front of him, staring into the busy restaurant air with an expression of deflated but still-present optimism. He’d get that thing yet.
But not tonight. He pulled on his baseball hat and wandered out the door without the leftovers, shoulders drooping under the weight of dashed hopes.
Jack-N-Grill, which now has two locations, is famous for its 7-pound burrito, which, if you’re able to finish it in one sitting, will net you a modest cash prize. When the burrito was featured on a recent episode of the Travel Channel show “Man V. Food,” Jack-N-Grill scored national notoriety. At best, I’m skeptical of oversized food, but there was something charming about this burrito and the earnestness of the youngster who’d given his all to down it.
And I identified with his dashed hopes. My experiences at the new Littleton outpost of Jack-N-Grill, five visits over a two-month period, had also ended in disappointment.
One thing you should know: The original Jack-N-Grill on Federal Boulevard is one of my favorite New Mexican restaurants in Denver. I like the green chile, I love the breakfasts, and most of all I admire the jovial, vital inclusiveness of the place. The restaurant is a family concern, and it’s no hyperbole to say that I feel a familial welcome there.
I only wish I could say the same of their new location in Littleton. I still like the green chile and the breakfasts, but the personality that infuses the mother location is obscured.
Littleton’s Jack-N-Grill is located in a development that also includes a Celtic Tavern and a 24 Hour Fitness. It is a sprawling restaurant with several seating areas, a row of ample banquettes and a huge bar with plenty of televisions for game-night suppers. But whereas the original Jack-N-Grill feels homey and welcoming, the offshoot feels chilly and impersonal.
And it feels hectic. At prime meal times, servers rush around clumsily, dropping plates and subsequent to-go boxes in front of customers like hot potatoes. Graciousness is scant. Whether because there are too few feet on the ground or whether those feet are being haphazardly managed is impossible to discern from the customer’s chair, but over four visits, I’ve yet to enjoy the attentions of a staffer who wasn’t impatient and/or annoyed.
I understand the culture of busy restaurants. I’ve lived on both sides of the order pad. But I know the difference between focused, busy service and distracted, hassled service, and at Jack-N-Grill’s Littleton location, hassledness reigns.
The hearty food does much to make up for this. If you’ve eaten at the Federal location of Jack-N-Grill, you’ll recognize the consistently excellent green chile — sharp and invigorating and deep — that is available as a bowl or for smothering. If you don’t yet know this green chile, you won’t be disappointed.
You’ll also recognize the big-as- your-head burgers, which rate above average. And you’ll be able to sate your combo-plate cravings; any of the adovada dishes, in particular, are satisfying and a good value. Margaritas, too.
What I wish is this: that the folks behind Jack-N-Grill hadn’t tried to transplant the organic original, but had instead put their considerable skill toward a different concept altogether. These are talented restaurateurs with potential beyond and apart from their pristine original concept. And they are killer cooks.There’s no reason why they shouldn’t be able to build a thriving business in Littleton, too. Here’s hoping they crack the code.
What do you think of Jack-N-Grill? Visit denverpost.com/restaurants.
Jack-n-Grill, Littleton location
New Mexican | * 1/2 Rating
2630 W. Belleview Ave., Littleton, 303-474-4242, jackngrill.com
Atmosphere: Big room and sprawling bar feel bustling when populated, sparse when empty.
Service: Not often on point.
Wine: Beers, margaritas.
Plates: Burgers $7 and up; burritos $7 and up; combo plates $11.
Hours: Three meals, seven days.
Details: Plenty of parking. Wheelchair accessible. No reservations needed. Happy hour specials. Lots of room for big parties.
Five visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
