It was a busy night at TAG, one of the busiest new restaurants on one of Denver’s busiest downtown strips. The place was packed. We’d arrived on time for an 8 o’clock reservation. Our table wasn’t ready, which was fine, because there was room at the bar, and a well-made gimlet, to wait it out.
Our table opened up at 8:15. We sat and promptly ordered another round of drinks. Twenty minutes later, they had yet to arrive.
“I’m sorry,” said our server when we inquired. “That table just ordered cocktails.” He pointed to a group of astonishingly blond women in short dresses. His look said, Those girls are hot. You understand.
By 9:15, still with nothing to eat, I remembered that my parking meter was set to expire at 9:30.
Problem: I had no change. So I approached the bar with a single. “For the parking meter,” I explained. I pointed at my table to remind the bartender that we’d been here, racking up charges, for over an hour.
“No,” he said. “You have to go next door.”
I quickly calculated in my head what we’d be spending that night, probably north of two-fifty. Amigo couldn’t pop his register and change a dollar? I wondered whether he’d accommodate me if I were as fetching as those blonds.
Call it a bad first impression. And a shame, because on that night, the food, the potentially revelatory food, the thing that should be the centerpiece of the TAG experience, was totally obscured by the confused, misdirected, off-putting choreography in the dining room.
Troy Guard is well-known to be one of Denver’s very best and most creative cooks, and deservedly so. TAG, more than any of the restaurants he’s yet helmed, appears to reflect his culinary point of view.
Over several visits, much on TAG’s menu was rewarding. An innovative rabbit empanada with a sweet-savory mole sauce had infinite layers of flavor. A silky-rich onion-soup dumpling was at once delicate and substantive. Lamb held strong against its staccato Sichuan spices. Seafood potstickers were hot and crispy as advertised.
Guard’s Hawaiian roots shone in some fish dishes, including a clearly conceived ahi dish accompanied by a drizzle of a pleasantly prickly soy/ginger sauce.
And the rest of the city should give up on making beef sliders; TAG’s version, with a gorgonzola topper, closes the book on this dish.
Silliness appeared on a dish of seared kampachi, served sashimi- style with jalapeño and Pop Rocks — sourced at Walgreens, according to our server. (I know, I know. Lighten up, Shaw. And yet. Pop Rocks?) Dullness appeared, too, in the lunchtime fish tacos, which, while they had fresh components (fish, tortilla, cotija, slaw, corn salsa), had little to say.
Dining is a show, a piece of drama (or sometimes, comedy). Troy Guard is not the only restaurateur in town who understands that. But what Guard sees that others miss is this: Dining is an interactive show, and identifying and cultivating an audience is key. You can build success on a crowd if you get the right crowd. TAG has it. It is the restaurant of the moment, a distinction this crew has worked hard to earn.
Drop any doubt: TAG will be a lasting hit. Guard’s team simply cares too much to allow otherwise. But on busy nights, one may fairly wonder: What about the food?
I’ve visited TAG several times, including at least once when I was certainly spotted. But to focus on the food, I’ve chosen my times carefully: Weeknights, not weekends. Early in the evening. Lunch. When the room is quiet and unburdened by crushing crowds, the food can be remarkable.
Bottom line: Getting your money’s worth at TAG is a question of timing. If you’re looking for a busy night of rubbernecking, hit TAG during prime dining hours. But if you’re more interested in experiencing Guard’s well-honed craftsmanship at the stove, avoid the crush.
What do you think of TAG? Visit denverpost.com/restaurants to share.
Eclectic (described on the menu as “Continental Social Food”). 1441 Larimer St., 303-996-9985, tag-restaurant.com
** (Very Good)
Atmosphere: Snazzy room with a comfortable bar and open kitchen. Deep banquettes.
Service: Acceptable on off-hours, hectic and overburdened during the rush.
Wine: Smart list with some affordable pours. Energetic cocktail list; have a gin and house-made tonic.
Plates: Small plates $6-$14, entrees $19-$29.
Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner: Sunday-Thursday: 5-10 p.m., Friday- Saturday: 5-11 p.m.
Details: Street parking. Wheelchair accessible. Prepare to wait for a table. Private dining.
Four visits.
Our star system: **** : Exceptional *** : Great ** : Very Good * : Good
