Contrary to the current fashion of saying otherwise, food is not now, and has never been, Scotland’s long suit.
I say so as a Scot, on both sides of the family. Sure, there was that rumor of a cousin from England generations ago, but our clan, Shaw of Tordarroch, has a tartan, ancestral lands (which we haven’t occupied, or even visited much, in centuries) and lots of freckles. And I do revere the shortbread, scotch broth, finnian haddie and rumbledethump of my ancestors. To say nothing of a middle-aged single malt.
But haggis? Black pudding? Boiled mutton with tatties and nips? These dishes have their merits, but I submit (as a Scot) that they are few. On the world stage, the cuisine of my forefathers just can’t compete.
Which is why I was pleasantly surprised by Argyll, the new Scottish(ish) “gastropub” in Cherry Creek North. The place serves cider-braised scallops, chicken liver pate, and a curry-kissed lamb shank.
Traditional Scottish fare? More like contemporary urban Scottish fare, and at the risk of inviting violent rebuttal from burly kilted Highlanders tossing tree trunks, I’d rather spend my money — something a Scot is always loath to do in the first place — on the latter.
Start with a Scotch whisky if you like, but don’t ignore Argyll’s affordable wine list, which offers a dozen-plus pours by the glass (including a $7 glass of soothing Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay, if you’re drawn that way) to sip on while you scan the menu.
You’ll likely be directed by your server to the house crisps (potato chips), but ask for the “gastrique” of malt vinegar on the side; when dressed in the kitchen, the otherwise earthy crisps go soggy.
Next, opt for the beautifully hued and faintly piquant pea soup, or if it’s a rainy night, the robust mussels in stout — the accompanying garlicky toasts are savory little sponges to suck up the tomato-beer broth.
Main course (at suppertime) calls for the aforementioned curried lamb shank, a thoughtful opus of Colorado, U.K. and South Asian flavors, or the lamb-and-beef Argyll burger on a potato bun.
“Scotch chop,” a term I’ve encountered only twice before (neither in Scotland, and both times referring to lamb), here connotes pork. It’s a remarkably tasty chop, thick and bone-in, with a sweet herbed glaze and a pile of champ (a buttery take on mashed potatoes that pulls scallions into the mix).
Steer clear of the “Argyll MacCheese,” a D.O.A. dish of overcooked pasta, floury bechamel sauce, wimpy bacon, over-truffled bread crumbs and undercooked langoustines. Far be it from a Scot to turn up nose at a filling meal like this one, but those dollars are better spent on a plate of battered haddock and chips.
Weekend brunch at Argyll features similar but different dishes, including a solid haddock sandwich and a worthy morning-after egg and bacon sandwich, best enjoyed with a bloody Mary that’s heavy on the horseradish.
Argyll’s servers are energetic and friendly, if sometimes dotty. Formality is forgone, which is perhaps appropriate here, where the goal is not exquisite choreography, but a relaxed atmosphere and notched-up food.
The danger? That Argyll becomes yet another hangout for Celt-o-phile beer swillers (something Denver has plenty of) and loses sight of its unique culinary calling.
But for now, Argyll is a well-considered and promising restaurant, Scottish in all the right ways, and a good match for its neighborhood.
Agree? Disagree? Visit denverpost.com/restaurants and tell us what you think.
Argyll
Scottish/gastropub 2700 E. Third Ave., 720-382-1117, argyllpub.com
** (Very Good)
Atmosphere: Roomy, indoor- outdoor pub. Busier later in the week.
Service: Quick and friendly, although when everything on the menu is described as “amazing,” eyebrows go up.
Wine: Decent, affordable list. Plenty of beers on draft and in bottles. Substantial list of scotches.
Plates: Starters, $6-$13. Mains, $9-$32.
Hours: Monday-Thursday 4 p.m.-midnight; Friday 4 p.m.- 2 a.m.; Saturday 10 a.m.-2 a.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-midnight
Details: Reservations accepted but not usually needed. Street parking. Private dining available.
Three visits.
Our star system: **** : Exceptional *** : Great ** : Very Good * : Good
