Aria: 250 Josephine St., 303-377-4012, dinearia.com
The look: You’ve been in this space before: Maybe it was Juicy Lucy’s, maybe it was Tula, maybe it was Papillon, Indigo or Go Fish Grill. The layout is the same: Spacious dining room looking out onto the street, big bar in the back, generous tables and banquettes.
On the menu: Creative, whimsical, borderline-wacky fare, as is expected from Chef Michael Long, already famous for his work at Opus restaurant in Littleton. Examples: Dr Pepper- braised bison short rib, seared scallops drizzled with bacon fat poured from a lighted bacon-fat candle, Gruyère and onion- crusted chicken atop a slice of French toast. Long’s team is talented enough to pull (most of) it off. Spendy: Entrees range from $20-$39.
The vibe: Still finding its crowd, but expect a relaxed lunchtime vibe and a small, but growing, dinnertime following. Happy hour finds locals congregating at the bar in the back.
When to visit: Come with an open mind, when you’re in the mood to try something unexpected. If you arrive with a specific dish or flavor in mind, you’ll find the menu a moving target.
