Denver’s Highland district doesn’t lack for restaurants that have earned their popularity — its jumping scene is the envy of dozens of Mile High neighborhoods.
New to the mix is Highland Tap & Burger, which sits in a converted, one-story red brick building at 2219 W. 32nd Ave. It’s a lively room, thanks to an abundance of hard surfaces, including concrete floors, that have more bounce than a schoolboy with a SuperBall.
In short, Highland Tap is not a place to propose marriage, unless you’re fluent in sign language or plan to text “b mine 4evr” to a table-mate.
But it is decidedly a place for a raucous good time in a sprawling room, a wide range of brewed beverages, and an ambitious menu presided over by a top-drawer chef, Elijah Odell, and a friendly, attentive staff.
The emphasis is on locally sourced food, an idea that is fine and fashionable, although some restaurateurs publicly wonder whether this notion of sustainability is in itself sustainable. We shall see.
A tender short-rib sandwich boasted deep, dark flavors, thanks to a long braising in Cutthroat porter. Bright top notes were delivered with fresh horseradish and celery root slaw, a rewarding variation on traditional cole slaw.
Other artisanal touches appear on other sandwiches.
The Mother Earth is a black-bean veggie patty with radish sprouts, roma tomatoes and whole-grain ale mustard aioli. The Rocky Mountain arrives with Rosen Colorado ground lamb, Haystack Mountain goat cheese, tomato mint relish and wild baby arugula.
Burying the needle in the “urp”-o-meter is the Tap Burger, an over-the-top concoction that is Exhibit A in why the French, among others, roll their eyes in wonder at us. The lineup: a 1/3-pound beef patty topped with pulled pork, an onion ring, American and cheddar cheeses, and a zippy sauce. Yours for $10 — $11 if you add a fried egg.
If your life goal is to send your cardiologist’s kids to an Ivy League school, you can’t go wrong.
Oddly, the basic burger was a disappointment. The meat was dry and the onion roll — for which the restaurant, in a rather cheap note, charges an extra 50 cents — was too dense and chewy, overpowering the meat.
More successful was a pulled pork sandwich braised in root beer. The meat was succulent, almost unctuous, accompanied by that celery root slaw.
French fries were middling, a bit limp, but the onion rings and fried zucchini were minor miracles. They arrived in a light, almost feathery batter — the color of goldenrod and with the proper crunch. Onion rings are a side dish that too often get treated as an afterthought. Here they shine.
About the beverages. While wine and cocktails are served, the restaurant’s great pride is in its beer and ale list. Sixty varieties are available, with 18 Colorado microbrews on tap. Highland Tap has worked closely with local breweries to develop the list.
One caveat for the Meg Ryans of the world — we’re referencing her character’s dining pickiness in the movie “When Harry Met Sally” — Highland Tap isn’t keen on substitutions, which our waiter pointed out to us up front.
Folks who are paying a sawbuck for a burger deserve some latitude.
The vibe skews young, with plenty of sock caps at the bar and TVs tuned, on a recent evening, to the Winter X Games. How young? A couple of guys at the bar were watching pre-Super Bowl coverage, and one of them wondered aloud who the “gray-haired dude with the microphone” was. It was Hall of Fame quarterback Joe Montana.
Kudos for this, however: For all the flowing suds, this is a family-friendly place. There is a kid’s menu offering an entree, drink and scoop of vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce for $6. Whoever penned the menu has some experience with the booster- seat set: Offerings include burger and fries, mac-and-cheese, chicken tenders and buttered noodles. No tantrums there.
Odell is a trained chef whose resume includes some serious rooms, including Vesta Dipping Grill and Vail’s Game Creek. He and his partners have put together a room with an inviting glow for the outside world, complete with a patio whose stylish, gas-fueled fireplace can warm diners even on winter evenings.
Highland Tap & Burger is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.
William Porter: 303-954-1877 or wporter@denverpost.com
HIGHLAND TAP & BURGER
Creative bar food
2219 W. 32nd Ave. 720-287-4493 highlandtapdenver.com
* 1/2 (Good/Very Good)
Atmosphere: Two lively rooms with lots of acoustic bounce. Long bar and abundant high-definition TVs for sports buffs.
Service: Friendly, knowledgeable.
Beverages: 60 beers, including 18 Colorado microbrews on tap. Wine and cocktails, too.
Plates: Creative bar food with an emphasis on “craft” burgers. Brunch dishes on weekends.
Hours: Monday-Friday 3 p.m.-2 a.m.; Saturday-Sunday 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Happy hour Monday-Friday 3 p.m.-6 p.m.; nightly 11 p.m.-2 a.m.
Details: A fun place with a jumping vibe.
Two visits
Our star system: ****: Exceptional ***: Great **: Very Good *: Good
