Four decades have passed since vegetarian restaurants gained a foothold in this country, sprouting like so many enchanted broccoli forests and introducing American diners to tofu, tempeh and other staples of the movement.
The restaurants’ menus have evolved far beyond the bland brown-rice dishes of the early going, led by such pioneers as the Moosewood Restaurant in upstate New York, where co-founder Mollie Katzen put out sterling dishes such as the enchanted broccoli forest casserole, which titled a best-selling cookbook.
Since 1998, Denver has been home to WaterCourse Foods. The cafe, which opened on East 13th Avenue before moving to 837 E. 17th Ave. several years ago, provides safe harbor and tasty fare to Mile High vegetarians and vegans.
Best of all, open-minded carnivores can enjoy it too.
WaterCourse dishes out breakfast, lunch and dinner in a hip, spacious room. It’s frequented by diners of all ages, but skews to a younger crowd, a fact reflected by a wait staff sporting more ink than the Sunday comics section.
The restaurant’s ethos is reflected in its motto: “Eat the path of least resistance.” Oddly, among the wall murals is a disconcerting one that shows a rabbit, cute as all get-out, eyeing a wolf that looms, fangs bared. Apparently, Mr. Canis lupus didn’t get the memo, though when you think about it, eating the rabbit probably is the wolf’s path of least resistance, more so than chowing on seitan, the faux meat made from washed gluten flour.
WaterCourse serves breakfast seven days a week, and veteran bacon-and-eggers might be surprised by two things. One, the cafe serves eggs — cage-free, of course. Second, the scrambled tofu dishes, at $8.75, might be even better than the eggs.
This is not your father’s tofu. Deeply seasoned, and tossed with a melange of savory ingredients, it’s a showstopper. Our favorite is the NYC tofu scramble, spiked with sun-dried tomatoes, spinach, onions, roasted garlic, fresh basil and brie. (Try subbing the terrific smoked mozzarella for the brie.)
Another tasty scramble is the Pepe, tomatoes and that smoked mozzarella topped with spicy green chile and paired with silky refried pintos.
Breakfast mavens should also try the biscuits and gravy, at $6.75 a value-packed way to fuel up. The dense biscuits were topped with a thick vegetarian gravy infused with thyme and sage. (Confession: Some years ago I quit making Thanksgiving gravy. I just pick up a WaterCourse pint.)
Sandwiches and wraps, at $9.75, generally work, especially if you stick with vegetable-only options. No matter their nutritional virtues, I’m no fan of the flavor — or its relative lack — in seitan and tempeh, a soybean cake. Ditto for their grainy texture.
The Jimmy Wrap is good, with a whole-wheat tortilla coated with hummus and packed with chopped Greek salad and tangy feta cheese. The Maximus burger is made from pinto beans and quinoa, the South American super-grain. A tasty and textural winner, it is served on a sweet-potato bun that complements the goodies.
I will lodge a complaint about naming vegetarian sandwiches for their meat-filled progenitors. Consider the Tempeh Cuban. Yes, you get the go-withs of a traditional Cuban sandwich, the mustard, pickles and provolone. But grilled tempeh instead of shaved ham and roast pork? No, gracias, and please call it something else that doesn’t remind me of the swine I’m missing.
Salad options might be the most extensive in Denver. The $8.50 build-your-own boasts four greens options, six proteins, five cheese, 26 veggies, 11 fruits and nuts, plus assorted odds and ends such as pico de gallo and sauerkraut.
Entrees include the Andalusian pasta, at $12.95 a heady, creative blend of sauteed squash, cannellini beans, green olives and fresh sage, sauced with brown butter and served over linguine. Yes, you get grated Parmesan with it.
The Thai stir fry — broccoli, carrots, cabbage and onions in a zippy peanut sauce — also worked. It was served over brown rice with crispy or grilled tofu for $11.95.
Less successful was the country- fried seitan, a breaded seitan steak. The mashed potatoes, gravy and succotash were fine. The thick steak, not so much. Serve this in NASCAR country, and they’d take you into the wall on turn three, guaranteed.
A word about the service. It can be spotty. Often it’s crackerjack, especially at the long, wood-topped bar. On the floor, it can be laid-back to the point of indifference. The food comes out quickly enough, but there are times when there are sluggish waits between orders, refills, busing and the check’s arrival.
As in any restaurant, the service on the floor should be worthy of what’s emerging from WaterCourse’s kitchen.
William Porter: 303-954-1877 or wporter@denverpost.com
WATERCOURSE FOODS
Vegetarian
837 E. 17th Ave., 303-832-7313 watercoursefoods.com
* 1/2 (Good/Very Good)
Atmosphere: Relaxed, casual
Service: Friendly, knowledgeable, though sometimes laid-back to a fault
Beverages: Wine, beer, 15 types of tea
Plates: Eclectic and creative mix of vegetarian and vegan fare that is tasty enough to appeal to open-minded carnivores
Hours: Monday-Friday: 7 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday- Sunday: 8 a.m.- 10 p.m.
Details: Spacious, modern room serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Street parking.
Our star system: ****: Exceptional ***: Great **: Very Good *: Good
