Calling your restaurant Salt is a bold move. You don’t want to scare off sodium-conscious diners — and they are legion — with the very name on the door.
But when you set up shop in a space that once housed a turn-of- the-century mortuary, and later one of your town’s most beloved dining spots, hey, why not roll the dice?
Chef Bradford Heap did just that.
His Salt the Bistro occupies the former Tom’s Tavern, at 1047 Pearl St. in Boulder. It is a smart remodel where an ambitious, rotating menu pulls a U-turn from that of its predecessor, which closed in 2007 after decades serving burgers and beer to the town-and-gown crowd.
Judging from the crowds on two recent visits, Salt has built its own following in the year since it opened. The crowd skews young, as you might expect in a college town, but from the tableside chatter, they come for the food, not the scene.
Helmed by Heap, who also runs Colterra in Niwot, Salt delivers locally sourced ingredients spun into eclectic, imaginative dishes.
And, yes, salt is on the table. Two types, actually: pink Himalayan rock salt, granular with hints of smoke, plus flakes of sea salt that look scooped from a fresh dusting of snow.
The visits revealed a restaurant with a friendly, conscientious staff and food that, while not always flawless, offers deep rewards and good value for diners.
The room will likely be unrecognizable to old-time Tom’s fans.
Bare-brick walls remain and a pressed-tin ceiling was revealed in the remodel, but the rest of the decor, down to the sleek lighting fixtures, is very much of the new century. The dining room unfolds far into the building, and there’s a spacious bar. A bonus for curious foodies: a short dining rail where you can watch the goings-on in the kitchen, with its wood-fired oven and open-flame grill.
A recent Sunday evening began with a pork-belly BLT. The slow-braised meat was paired with fried green tomatoes and sliced fresh heirloom tomatoes, which brought bright top notes to the rich pork. The late-summer show continued with a tomato salad with tomato crema and sweet basil oil.
But the crowning small plate was a cannelloni stuffed with pulled braised lamb and shiitake mushrooms. It inspired thoughts of canceling the entrees and ordering two more cannellonis.
A pork-chop entree was overcooked; the requested doneness had been whatever the kitchen recommended. The plate was promptly taken away and replaced with a spot-on medium chop, as juicy as the other was dry.
The vegetable tasting was a showcase for both the ingredients and their preparation: ratatouille, white-bean curry cake, corn souffle, eggplant rolled and stuffed with ricotta and housemade mozzarella, and a romano-bean salad. The plate’s showstopper was a wild-rice risotto cake studded with the dark grains. It delivered the deeper flavors of autumn, hinting at how this plate would soon leave summer behind.
A Tuesday-night visit proved a mixed bag.
Potato gnocchi with shiitakes had a fine textural snap. Two fat sea scallops were seared and paired with zucchini and a corn cake.
Halibut was superb, pearly white and pan-roasted to the border of translucence in the center. It came with mussels and cherry tomatoes and was topped with fennel.
The leg of lamb had problems. The arrangement was pretty enough, with sliced medallions done medium-rare, as ordered. But some bites were deposit-in-the-napkin gristly. A creamy rosemary polenta couldn’t fully salvage the dish.
In the lone slip in service, a side of garlic-seared chard never arrived.
About the adult beverage selection: The wine list is compact but thoughtful, with 22 wines by the glass, ranging from $7 to $20. Eleven of those wines are from Colorado vintners. The beer selection also reflects a local commitment, from Coors Light to Twisted Pine’s “Le Petit Saison,” a Belgian-style ale.
Cocktails show creativity and craft, including the Pancho Villa, an award-winner made with tequila, cilantro syrup, lemon juice and pomegranate.
And hats off to this: Mixed drinks come in two sizes and prices, “shorties” and “standards.” More bars should offer lower-octane options.
As executive chef, Heap shows a commitment to seasonal, locally farmed and ranched ingredients. There is an earnestness to his mission — he works with wife Carol Vilate, the room’s designer — starting with the menu’s lofty sentiments about its namesake mineral: “Salt is necessary for the survival of all known living creatures. In virtually all cultures, salt held great importance and was a symbol of well-being and friendship.”
Fine words; please keep the food and drink coming.
All told, Salt elevates your blood pressure in a good way.
William Porter: 303-954-1877 or wporter@denverpost.com
Salt the Bistro
New American. 1047 Pearl St., Boulder. 303-444-7258 saltboulderbistro.com
** stars our of four
Atmosphere: A sleek refurbishing in the former Tom’s Tavern space (the house burger is named for the predecessor). The look mixes the traditional brick walls with stylish furnishings and lighting.There’s a bar, plus a small dining rail where you can watch the action in the kitchen. Lunch and dinner daily, plus a Sunday brunch.
Service: Outgoing, thoughtful, knowledgeable.
Prices: Moderate to expensive. Small plates run $9-$15. Entrees are $12-$28.
Hours: Sunday 10 a.m.-10 p.m. (brunch and dinner), Monday-Wednesday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Thursday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., social hour daily 3 p.m.-6 p.m.
Details: Reservations for parties of five or more only.
Two visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good